The Picture

10 January 2013 - Cai Tac Village, Hau Giang Province, Viet Nam

     Six of us drove down from Saigon today to begin our work with the WEAV organization (Women's Empowerment and Voice). It's hot and very humid for this time of the year. It looks like rain. South of Saigon the landscape changes dramatically to an aquatic world of water palms, coconut palms, and green rice paddies, and the numerous rivers that make up the Mekong River System. Most tourists see only the Mekong. The Hau River ahead of us is much, much larger, and more interesting. I had been on the Hau many times in previous years and for me it was like a homecoming to see its broad expanse again. Continually muddy with silt coming all the way out of Laos and Cambodia, as if carrying away all the hopes and dreams of the local inhabitants and dumping them into the Pacific Ocean. Having been all over the geography of Viet Nam from top to bottom and having studied each section, the Mekong Delta remains one of my favorite locales. It's just very fascinating. Everyone and everything moves by water. The water dictates their lives and feeds the world with its endless variety of tropical fruits and farm products. They say no one ever starves in this region due to the abundance of food hanging from the trees and the seafood trapped in its waterways. Add to this the thousands of canals connecting the production areas and farms to the numerous rivers. Hollywood couldn't have dreamed this place up. No modern computer-generated movie could duplicate the raw beauty of the weird landscape.
     Seven kilometers southeast of Can Tho we headed off the highway and into a village system of canals and narrow roads until the roads ended at the edge of what looked like a jungle. Not really. Every piece of land here is in reality numerous fruit plantations that butt up against each other and they are tended as carefully as anyone's garden plot is cared for. How anyone fought a war here is beyond my belief. Our Navy tried to control it, but failed miserably against the enemy and the elements. Our group of two Americans and four Vietnamese is here now to award 54 college scholarships to promising students from Hau Giang Province, and check in with local women who were awarded micro loans last year. We would be staying at the ancestral home of Ms. Thanh My, one of the board members, and a gracious host for the WEAV Team.
Loi, our van driver pulled off the road at the edge of the jungle and we began the walk to what we soon started calling "The Hacienda" situated deep within the forest of fruit trees, coconut palms, and alongside a narrow canal. It started raining as soon as we left the van. We were laughing. What a way to make an entrance.
     Rooming and bedding arrangements were sorted out after dinner. This would be interesting in the morning with all these women trying to use the one bathroom in the house. Three other women (Thanh My's relatives) already lived there and pampered all of us with constant meals, fruit, and non-stop amounts of tea and coffee. The real work was to begin in the morning at a local school and we had to be on time. I was directed toward a bedroom I would share with Mr. Thai, a quiet sort, but a good man about my age. The first order of business in this neck of the woods is to rig up your mosquito net and find space for your gear, preferably up off the floor so it's not infested with insects.  I slept like a baby amidst frog and gecko noises. The night air  was warm but not unpleasant.
     The house came alive with the first call of the local roosters. A cooking fire was started. I trundled around in the gloom of our room to find my shaving gear. Above my head I spotted some old wedding photos, somewhat faded with time, a calendar from the previous year, and next to my shaving gear on a bureau, an old photo in a silver frame of a young man dressed in a navy uniform. His eyes stared at me. I took time to look at him as my eyes adjusted to the dim light of the coming morning. I wondered who's navy he had been in. Such questions can be deeply personal and possibly none of my business in a country with which we had previously fought a war. The business at the local school went well; even better than expected, and the team returned to the "Hacienda" tired, but elated. I filled my brain all that day with a thousand questions about the sailor in the picture. I had to find out who he was and what his connection was to this gracious family who was now hosting me and five other people in their home.
     We were tired that evening, but no matter. Tuyen, the lady who seemed to be the main organizer of our stay, soon had dinner ready and let us relax afterward in hammocks and again and again, produced large servings of freshly picked fruit and pots of tea. It was a wonderful evening. I asked if there was a guitar in the house and one was quickly produced. It was a hand-made beauty from Can Tho and probably cost no more than a hundred dollars. We laughed and joked and discussed the day's business. The guitar helped me slide into the night-sounds, and continuing thoughts of the Sailor in the photo. There are a million stories in (and out) of this country that have never surfaced yet. The war was one thing. The diaspora of the Boat People was another. The Post 1975 period of peace and economic struggle is the Today portion of a continuing history. I've been a witness to it all and have worked with many who've made it a life advocacy to continue to watch it, study it, and write about it. My life has been good to me throughout it all. The military part of me would like me to forget about it, but every once in a while it jumps up to bite me at odd and curious moments, such as the one I was having right now with that photograph. We all went to bed early with the January shortness of the day - and I said a silent goodnight to the eyes staring out at me from the photo.
     I'm an inveterate collector of stories. They feed our memories of people, both good and bad. If they're never written down the truth within them is lost to the ages. Facts get confused with time and exaggeration. If I didn't ask any questions I wasn't about to get any answers about the Sailor. The next morning's breakfast of fried fish and Pho proved to be interesting.
     During a more quiet moment after the meal I broached the subject with our host Thanh My. She was curious as to why I was so interested in knowing who the man was. I told her I too, had been in the military, and had actually served here during the war. All the women seemed surprised to learn this. The open veranda, which served as gathering area and dining area became even more quiet as Thanh My started telling the story of Tran Kim Long, who's widow Hue had graciously opened her home to us for the past several days. I looked at Hue, and the wedding photos in the bedroom suddenly became clearer to me. Kim Long's photo also held a special place on the Family Altar in the center of the home. "What happened to him?" I asked. "Let me show you something," replied Thanh My. She led me reverently out to the rear of the house and down a path covered with fruit trees. Ahead was the Family burial ground, neatly kept and obviously visited often. "Here he is," said Thanh My. "He survived the war and struggled after he came home. He married, had three daughters who still live close by, and then suddenly died when he was 45." It reminded me of so many other stories I'd heard over the years since the end of the war. Kim Long had served on "the Southern Side" but it didn't seem to matter to me in the end. He had his whole life ahead of him after surviving so much, only to die at a young age in a man's life-span. I, a former Sailor paid my tributes to another Sailor. The civilian world has no understanding of the meaning behind the exchange. It's a code of sorts, ingrained in me until I meet my own passing from this piece of dirt. Although I never knew him, I'll not forget him.